JORGE'S RX
All You Need to Grow… (Grow America #5)
Thu, Aug 19, 2004 3:10 pm
Fertilizing Your PlantsI have a question about which fertilizer to use during seedling, vegetative and flowering growth. Please recommend brands and their corresponding nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium percentages. I don’t want to burn them with too much nitrogen at any stage of growth. BTW, I’m growing in soil.
-- Timmy G, Amarillo, TX
Dear Timmy,
First, you have to start with good soil. Look for a rich organic blend such as Garden-Ville potting soil. It’s made from compost, Canadian peat moss, perlite, orange sand, cedar flakes and other ingredients. I’m not crazy about cedar flakes because they take up nitrogen to decompose, but the level is low. They also help provide drainage and aeration. Look for a good local brand of store-bought organic soil.
The water from Amarillo comes from Lake Meredith (60%) and groundwater (40%). Amarillo is in farm country, and farm chemicals and fertilizers could leave the water tainted. Request a water analysis from your local water district (to determine the pH) and a list of dissolved solids in the water. If the level of sodium is more than 50 ppm and the total dissolved solids level is more than 300 ppm, you should treat the water with reverse osmosis to remove dissolved salts. The pH should be between 6 and 7 for good nutrient uptake.
There are many good organic fertilizers to use. A partial list includes Canna, Earth Juice, Fox Farm and Formula X. Use the fertilizers as directed for seedling, vegetative and flowering growth. You should also purchase a biostimulant to increase fertilizer uptake and soil life. Biostimulants often contain humic acid, fulvic acid, trichoderma, and a host of good microbes and bacteria that promote growth. Many companies carry biostimulants.
Vegetative plants need a full range of macronutrients and micronutrients and use a lot of nitrogen, which washes out of the soil quickly and must be replaced regularly. Some strains, such as Sweet Tooth and Big Bud, are incredibly easy to grow and can take high doses of fertilizer.
Change to flowering fertilizer a few days after turning the light to a 12/12 day/night schedule. Flowering fertilizer should contain higher levels of phosphorus (P) and potassium (K) and less nitrogen (N). Adding an additional PK 13-14 supplement for the last four weeks before harvest will swell buds to a nice, tight, compact mass.
-JC
Blotches
I have two leaves that have a kind of white blotch on them. They’re rectangular in shape. Are they going to turn yellow due to not enough nitrogen? Or is there something else going on?
-- Crazy B
Ohio
Dear Crazy,
Nutrient problems usually appear fairly consistently on groups of leaves. If all older leaves start to turn yellow or discolor, it’s a mobile nutrient problem. Mobile nutrients move to the point in the plant where they are needed. If a group of leaves all react the same way, it’s probably a nutrient problem. For example, if the problem occurs on just one or two leaves close to one another, they could have experienced wind or heat stress. This would cause the blotches.
Blotches can come from many sources. Normally they’re dark rather than light, which confuses the issue. My guess is that the leaves that have been affected are older leaves. The blotches have been probably found in between leaf veins. This would lead me to think it’s a deficiency of phosphorous, potassium and magnesium.
Check ventilation and airflow, and keep the light far enough away from the plant so that it doesn’t burn. A 400-watt lamp should be no closer than 12 to 18 inches from the garden canopy.
Give the plants a good flushing with quarter-strength nutrient solution. Leach pots with three times the volume of solution as there is volume of soil. This should get your garden back on track.
-JC
Read the Rest in Issue #5 of High Times' Grow America
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JT
Jun 24 2010, 12:11 am
bigDeezy
Mar 28 2010, 7:14 am
greenthumb
Mar 25 2010, 10:37 pm
s. white
Jan 6 2010, 1:31 pm
They send cheap crap, WAY overprice it, refuse to answer emails, package poorly AND didn't even send the nutrients I paid for. They still will not answer thier emails or send the nutrients!
DON'T waste your money on these thieves "looks like a computer" grow box, or anything else they make either!
There are so many good companies out there, why suffer the aggravatrion I did but dealing with a shitty one?
purp
Aug 12 2009, 3:15 am
seanile -69
May 21 2009, 4:54 am
I have an indoor crop,and I was wondering if it be a good ideal if i pruned my plants that are 3 weeks into the flowering cycle?would it strees the plant harsh enough to stunt the growth of the plant?Also the plants have a 7-8 week flowering cycle, if that info is needed.
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bob towker
Oct 16 2006, 9:57 am
madtown thug
Jul 26 2006, 2:44 pm
look into geting grow lights.
and for your basic q? and a
look at the top left of this page your gonna see q/a data
base.it's very helpful and ive leard a lot from there.also get some ph strips
so you can keep an eye on the ph level should be about
six.
new grower
Jul 24 2006, 3:52 am
starting to sprot at the top. i am new and inexperanced. i keep the pot in a friends room and i have been taking it out side and geting it sunlight about every other day, and when i dont take it out side i set it by the window sile. does any one have any tips for me to get better buds?
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Jul 17 2006, 8:38 pm
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May 7 2006, 5:14 am
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Apr 30 2006, 5:47 am
Craig
Apr 1 2006, 8:44 pm
the maximum thc production happens at 12/12 anything other than this and they are just loosing resin content.
the only thing I could suggest is flower them until you are ready to move and harvest them, they might not be fully mauture, but will be smokable with a fair bit of kick still. you should still get enough for personal untill you get set up in the new place....
sorry mate but flowering times are pretty much set and with all the fucking around youll need to do you will only save a week at the MOST.
try spraying soda water, the C02 will speed the process up more than changing light hours....
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Apr 1 2006, 1:15 am
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Feb 27 2006, 10:03 pm
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to ken
Jan 21 2006, 8:41 am
Ken
Jan 20 2006, 9:19 pm
Thank you Ken
binky
Dec 13 2005, 5:40 pm
binky
Dec 13 2005, 5:38 pm
Craig
Nov 18 2005, 4:58 pm
to keep them short you may need to tip it once or twice then as those branches grow up they can be kinked or tied down..this allows for the bottom branches to grow through, allowing it to bush out. I do this every 3 days just until the plant covers the pot then I flower.
but you say you dont want to tip ( top) it..want that big crown hey...other ways to keep you nodes closer is, use a metal Halide for vegitive growth...this doesnt strech the plant out as much...if you cant afford 2 lights, a MH, HPS then what I do is run my light for 20 - 22 hours this doesnt allow the plant to grow much at all...no dark period..keeping your nodes closer.
has this helped...?
check out this link and you can see what I meen about kinking over
www.bubblebag.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1617
down the bottom are some pics of my room
binky
Nov 2 2005, 4:41 pm
bent2be
Aug 25 2005, 10:11 pm
what kind of light are you using and how far is it from the tops of your plants?
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Aug 25 2005, 12:56 pm
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GET 2-400 WATT MH, MYLAR, YOUR STARTS OR SEEDLINGS, SOME PETERS 20-20-20 (BUT USE ONLY 1/2 OF THE AMOUNT OF FERT IN THE DIRECTIONS WHEN MAKING 1 GALLON)
GROW IN THE VEG. CYCLE (18-24 HRS. LIGHT) UNTIL THE PLANT IS 12 INCHES TALL THEN CUT YOUR LIGHTS 12ON/12OFF (BUD CYCLE) FOR 7- 12 WEEKS DEPENING ON STRAIN
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Oct 30 2004, 4:31 pm
I just want to know how to grow some really killer budz...Where I'm from, they are kinda dry.. so If I knew exactly how...I can bank!!!
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Oct 29 2004, 2:18 am
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Oct 28 2004, 12:30 pm
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Oct 21 2004, 8:35 am
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Oct 17 2004, 10:37 pm
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Oct 15 2004, 9:42 pm
techniques so most the leaves are cut, i also want to know how many leaves should i cut when pruning
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