Grow
JORGES RX
All You Need to Grow
Tue, Nov 27, 2007 12:42 pm
Bro, I love your work—keep rollin’. Which are better for me, metal halide (MH) or high-pressure sodium (HPS) lights? My growing spaces are 2’ x 3’ x 6’ and 2’ x 4’ x 6’. Should I use a 250- or a 400-watt lamp?
Please help.
EZ Greens
Dear EZ Greens,
Both grow spaces are quite small, so your biggest concern should be heat buildup and possibly humidity. Deal with heat buildup by installing a good vent fan that will evacuate air fast enough to keep the garden temperature around 75°F during the day and no less than 5 to 10 degrees cooler at night. The humidity levels should run at about 60% to 65% in the vegetative room and stay around 50% in the flowering room. Regardless of the lamp you choose, it should have a remote ballast—which generates extra heat—that can be placed outside the growroom. Also, be sure to select the most efficient reflective hood. I like the Adjust-a-Wing and most Hortilux hoods, but there are many others available for horizontally mounted lamps. Look for a flat white, pebble or hammer-tone finish that spreads the light most evenly.
First purchase a 250-watt MH light for the 2’ x 3’ room. This will be your vegetative/mother/clone room. A 250-watt lamp will easily illuminate this room and supply enough light for vegetative growth. Seedlings and clones need 375 foot-candles (4,000 lux); vegetative plants need 2,500 foot-candles (27,000 lux) to grow well. Monitor the temperature in the room both day and night. Does the vent fan need to stay on all the time to keep the temperature in the desired range? If not, put the ballast in the room and see how long the fan needs to stay on to keep the temperature right. If all is well, you should be able to put a bigger 400-watt HPS lamp in the 2’ x 4’ flowering room and use a similar or a little bigger vent fan to meet temperature requirements. The 400-watt lamp will easily supply the extra light needed to develop big buds. Flowering plants require 10,000 foot-candles (107,500 lux).
POLISH GROW BOOK
When will you publish a book for us in Poland? You are our God, but we need a grow book in Polish. Your books have appeared everywhere else in the world, but you have forgotten the Poles.
Your friends from Poland
Dear Polish friends,
You’re right! There are 60 million Poles, and they need grow information! Publishing books is an expensive and time-consuming process. So far, my books are in Dutch, English, French, German and Italian. By the end of this year, Marijuana Horticulture: The Indoor/Outdoor Medical Grower’s Bible will be available in Dutch and Russian. This book takes one year to translate, proof and correct, plus four months to print.
To solve the language and translation problem, I wrote a new picture-based book with plenty of simple, descriptive how-to text for beginners. We will be able to translate this book much faster and make smaller press runs in 12 different languages. This month we sent the new book, Marijuana Indoors: The Beginner’s Medical Cannabis Grower’s Bible, to the printer. It is packed with more than 500 new color photos and is designed for first-time growers, providing clear, concise information that will show them exactly how to harvest a heavy crop right from the start. We will translate this book from English into Arabic, Mandarin Chinese, Dutch, French, German, Italian, Japanese, Polish, Portuguese, Russian, Spanish and Vietnamese. It will take two years to complete all 12 translations. We are currently translating the Dutch, French, German, Japanese, Polish and Portuguese versions.
Finally, I would like to tell everyone else that this Polish e-mail came to me in Spanish. I get a dozen e-mails like this one every week. We are doing our best and will continue to publish my books in many languages.
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4pain420
Mar 10 2010, 11:16 am
4pain420
Mar 10 2010, 11:08 am
4pain420
Mar 2 2010, 1:26 pm
mialee47
Feb 26 2010, 12:58 am
it is meant to happen!
love,
stacey
THEMAN
Feb 2 2010, 11:34 am
STANKY BUDZ
Jan 24 2010, 5:26 am
loner
Jan 16 2010, 2:30 pm
crookshanx
Dec 12 2009, 2:04 pm
Curtis T
Oct 10 2009, 11:29 am
jim
Oct 3 2009, 9:21 pm
me girls
Aug 28 2009, 5:24 pm
whodat
Aug 9 2009, 11:29 am
t
Jul 5 2009, 7:34 pm
R. LEE
Mar 19 2009, 12:42 pm
Lexa
Feb 17 2009, 1:18 pm
Jackie
Feb 3 2009, 12:35 pm
whitey
Nov 20 2008, 10:33 pm
meMUser
May 23 2008, 7:24 pm
Here is a list of sites for LED grow lights. From what I read they are revolutionary!
Has any one used them? Please share your results.
http://tinyurl.com/4x97nd
mM
medMUser
May 23 2008, 7:15 pm
If you want sinse, take out all the males & watch the FM's for herm growth. MJ loves to reproduce, so you gotta get a good magnification glass to nip em in the bud. (pun optional.)
I would say that 24/7 is best for veg. Adding a dark period to veg cycle (16/8 ect) as I under stand, slows the veg period, adding a few days to the cycle. Depends on strain.
But I would over ride any thing I say if Jorge says different. He is much more experienced than me. Just got one of his books. I feel humbled! :-)
mM
meMUser
May 23 2008, 7:00 pm
mM
medMUser
May 23 2008, 6:24 pm
I do mine in veg using halide 24/7 with the HPS on for 2 hrs & on again for 2 hrs every 12 hrs. For flower, 12/12 with both on for the whole 12 hrs.
One med grower, Rick Maughs, even uses a small bulb in his grow room to imitate moon cycles. He has some great results. I have not tried that yet myself. His site is
http://www.medicalmarijuanaguide.com/
Also, does any one know how to get hold of the Mexican Hybrid that is mentioned in a HT article? :-) This sounds like a revolutionary strain if it is real. I am not affiliated with the man, [police, informants or law enfarcement (enforcement)] in ANY WAY, unless you count my busts in the early & mid '80's. :-)
mM
wva.krunchking
May 12 2008, 9:32 pm
SmokeyWhiteNug
May 12 2008, 8:57 pm
Heres proof-- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2yfMLepmFOA
Captain Chronic
Apr 22 2008, 7:15 pm
Sure would like sum
Tha Captain Stayin Cloudy round this mutha
Green Hit
Feb 5 2008, 11:34 am
The white moths are called white flies and it is crucial that you get rid of them immediately, because these things suck the juices of the plant and will completely destroy your crop.
Here's a solution I use whenever I have to deal with pests. Grab some discarded cigarette butts, place them in a small jar, and fill the jar with water. Allow them to soak for a few hours, strain the solution, place inside a sprayer. Add more water to fill to the top. Spray the plants making sure to get the undersides of the leaves as well. This should make short work of the white flies. Be sure to rinse the plants before smoking as they contain concentrated amounts of nicotine, which is what kills the flies. By the way, this method works well with most houseplants, too.
Skunk420
Feb 4 2008, 9:39 am
db
Jan 30 2008, 8:16 am
Green HIt
Jan 25 2008, 1:59 pm
As a plant grows, the lower leaves gradually turn yellow and die. This is natural, assuming the effect isn't extending rapidly up the entire plant.
I never use my potting soil more than once, so I never care about any manner of build-up. If you haven't been plying the plants w/massive doses of fertilizer, you shouldn't have a problem w/it. One thing I do before I fertilize, though, is to run plain water through the plant in an amount equal to the fertilizing solution. If you're concerned, however, certainly leach the plants. Always seek to err on the side of caution.
By the way, when you're ready to force flowering, add sugar solution to the plants in addition to whatever else you might use. Found out about this from an earlier HT posting and it works like a champ!
jrn
Jan 23 2008, 3:14 pm
Skunk420
Jan 22 2008, 8:53 am
jt
Jan 15 2008, 6:52 am
blackwin1
Jan 12 2008, 12:01 am
Green Hit
Jan 11 2008, 5:49 pm
Can't say I've ever had the mushroom problem myself, but I wouldn't think it will have much effect. Still, I'd always get rid of them. My experience is that little mushrooms grow into big ones, and big ones grow into bigger ones. After all, you're a MJ grower, not a mushroom grower ( I assume. ).
The crucial determinant for me in any situation is, what do the plants think about it. If they're happy, I'm happy. If it looks like something is causing problems, I change it.
By the way, I never use manure on my plants. I prefer to use blood meal for the nitrogen source.
toast
Jan 11 2008, 1:15 pm
Skunk420
Jan 11 2008, 8:55 am
lizard eyes
Jan 6 2008, 8:51 pm
stoney
Jan 6 2008, 5:41 pm
lizard eyes
Jan 6 2008, 1:40 am
Green Hit
Dec 31 2007, 7:36 pm
Mix a bit of the perlite w/the potting soil, enough to give the soil a speckled look.
In truth, only your plants can let you know what they like and what they don't, and they'll tell you PDQ. I would use the nitrogen products separately ( so as not to OD the plants on it )and observe the results on different plants.
You really needn't bother w/the mag. sulfate unless the plants indicate a lack. This will be indicated by the general leaf tissue turning pale green while the veins remain a much darker shade.
If you fertilize your plants every day or every other day, you will quickly kill them because the soil will become toxic. The potting soil will provide the nutrients a seedling needs for about a month. After that try fertilizing once every couple of weeks and see if they look happy. Adjust as you think they need. Also, before you fertilize, water the plants to wet the soil. This will assure a more even distribution of nutrients and help prevent root burn.
ganga52,
I would wait about another couple of weeks before fertilizing if growing in commercial potting soil.
You can grow vegetatively with pretty much any light regimen you want, including 24hrs/day. The only thing to really know about the lighting is that when you are ready to force flowering, the lights must be put on a 12 on/12 off routine and once the plants have adjusted to this schedule, DO NOT change it.
ganjua52
Dec 31 2007, 11:49 am
Skunk420
Dec 30 2007, 9:52 am
Skunk420
Dec 30 2007, 9:50 am
S420
Dec 28 2007, 11:42 am
You only need to plant some seeds in the potting soil and keep the soil moist to start sprouting. By the way, a great deal of valuable growing info resides in the Q&A section of the HT Grow website ( upper left hand corner ).
Sensemilla is not a variety of MJ, but simply refers to the unseeded buds of an unfertilized plant.
Skunk420
Dec 27 2007, 11:12 pm
Green Hit
Dec 27 2007, 9:39 pm
Flowering can take place anytime after about two weeks, but the longer you let them grow, the more smoke they will yield and the more potent it will be. I pinch the growing tips of my plants two or three times before I begin flowering in order to increase yield. To force flowering, put the plants on a 12/12 cycle.
Once you begin flowering, DO NOT try to switch back to a vegging cycle or you may end up with a hermaphrodite, herm for short. This is a plant the produces male and female flowers and it produces an extremely inferior smoke. Smoking pepper is more enjoyable then smoking herms.
When the plants are one or two months old, females can usually be distinguished by hairs protruding from the nodes. If you want to produce seed, leave the males until they are about the drop pollen, then remove them to a separate location and collect it. Paint the female flowers where you want seeds to form. If you want sensemilla, remove the males the instant you have positively identified them.
Green Hit
Dec 27 2007, 9:39 pm
Flowering can take place anytime after about two weeks, but the longer you let them grow, the more smoke they will yield and the more potent it will be. I pinch the growing tips of my plants two or three times before I begin flowering in order to increase yield. To force flowering, put the plants on a 12/12 cycle.
Once you begin flowering, DO NOT try to switch back to a vegging cycle or you may end up with a hermaphrodite, herm for short. This is a plant the produces male and female flowers and it produces an extremely inferior smoke. Smoking pepper is more enjoyable then smoking herms.
When the plants are one or two months old, females can usually be distinguished by hairs protruding from the nodes. If you want to produce seed, leave the males until they are about the drop pollen, then remove them to a separate location and collect it. Paint the female flowers where you want seeds to form. If you want sensemilla, remove the males the instant you have positively identified them.
Skunk420
Dec 27 2007, 10:40 am
Skunk420
Dec 27 2007, 10:37 am
@comment about "herms"
Dec 26 2007, 10:11 pm
I have 2 Purple Power herms and let me tell you, just the sun leaves taste like "Leb. Blonde hash" and not even anywhere near a disgusting taste.
May I ask a silly question?
Where do you think they get the feminized seeds from?
Correct me if I am wrong, but they develope herms for that reason alone and have a look at the price of the seeds.
The smoke is no different from the standard female,just needs 60 days longer to flower.
Keep them growing and keep the seeds, your next batch will be all females, but keep an eye on them because that generation will produce 35% herms and will pollinate your early females. As in most cases only pollinate a branch or 2 of what you want to be all females.
I would keep one going just for the seed stock and cross.
My Purple Passion is herm cross of Big Bud and Purple Power and my seed stock is replaced every harvest with no problems.
I get nice sized thick dense purple buds that once broken for smoking taste and smell like spicey hash. YUMMIE!
My point would be...KEEP THEM.
housewife
Dec 25 2007, 4:39 pm
Green Hit
Dec 24 2007, 2:51 am
Sorry to hear about your loss. No one likes to see weeks or months of work vanish in the wake of an honest mistake, but if your plants have turned herm, then the best thing you can do is yank'em and start over. Anything else is an exercise in futility. You won't get anything for your continued investment of time, energy and money because the resulting smoke of a herm will give you a headache long before it gets you high ( if it does at all )and tastes nothing short of disgusting.
dutch boyd
Dec 22 2007, 11:56 am
Dutch Boyd
Dec 15 2007, 10:58 am
Green Hit
Dec 14 2007, 1:33 pm
Just wanted to say that when I first harvest the buds from a blooming plant, I also harvest the majority of the leaves as well. I allow some to remain, of course, in order to susutain the plant during the second bloom. Also, when more leaves begin to grow, they are likely to look twisted and otherwise distorted. Nothing to worry about.
As far as my previous comments on changing a 12/12 cycle to some other, I can only say that it happened to me once ( and I mean ONLY once. I never again tempted fate in this respect ). I watched in horror on a daily basis as three of my beautiful ladies turned into hideous freaks of nature.
I cried.
dutch boyd
Dec 14 2007, 11:12 am
Green Hit
Dec 14 2007, 9:59 am
First, once your plants have adjusted to a 12/12 flowering regimen, never change it since this can cause plants to herm up on you. For second harvests, absolutely nothing changes regarding the plants. Just be sure to water and fertilize after you have obatined your first harvest. By the way, don't neglect to lower the lights to the proper height above the garden.
Second, I'd like to hear more about your 14/12 regimen as this requires a 26 hour day.
dutch boyd
Dec 13 2007, 9:11 pm
Green Hit
Dec 13 2007, 6:57 pm
Whenever I grow, I start my plants from seed at about August. This way, by the time the plants are old enough to take up an much larger amount of space, thereby needing larger quantities of light/sq.ft. ( i.e., power ), the colder months are upon me and the upswing in power needs for the plants are masked by the expected change in heating needs for fall and winter. By the way, I use fluorescents for growing and this allows me to use only the amount of light and space I need at any given time and, therefore, have no wasted power usage.
Green Hit
Dec 13 2007, 6:43 pm
Excellent news! It's amazing how just a bit of moisture can so seriously affect the level of high, but it's happened to me more than once, due to impatience on my part. As for yield, again using my own experiences, 60 days seems to be the minimum amount of time for most plants to flower fully. However, if you are growing from seed, you can increase your harvest from existing plants without starting over from seed again by the use of double harvesting. When you harvest for the first time, cut the plants down to about 2/3 their current height, water, and fertilize as usual. Your second crop will be ready in about another 2 months. If you're lucky, you can sometimes coax a third round from the plants. Using this method you can double or triple your harvest from any given plant.
By the way, I never sell my stash either. I smoke it myself and sometimes make presents of it, but that's it!
Caligirl
Dec 13 2007, 4:09 pm
dutch boyd
Dec 13 2007, 1:46 pm
Bambu69
Dec 13 2007, 11:53 am
First time grower got jorge's dvd's and waiting for his book.
But little scared about consealing power useage ?
thabutcha07
Dec 12 2007, 2:30 pm
Captain Stoner
Dec 11 2007, 4:42 pm
Look for a tiny little green worm that hides in leaves that are webbed together and remove the little devil. It bites into the main vain of the leaves and sucks the fluids out. The purple spots are from its waste(crap)it leave on the leaves.
Took me a while to find the bugger, it hides next to the main vain of the leaves and hard to spot until it gets big and too high on the fluids.
Keep it GROWING!
MT_smoker
Dec 11 2007, 11:59 am
Your 30A socket if for you electric clother dryer. It's a 220V socket. That means you have two 110V connections 180 degrees out of phase. The right way to do it is to put in a small load center (breaker box) with, maybe four 15A breakers.
Captain Stoner
Dec 10 2007, 11:49 pm
The soil must have had too much build up.
Mine are at the flowering stage and most of the leaves that were spotting were the older and lower leaves.
Got lucky and 2 of 4 females are hemaphrodites. My 3 generation will be all females from those 2 anyways.
Yes I do believe in using seeds instead of clones. You can't improve on seed stock using clones.
Sorry folks got on a rand..hahaha
hmmmm
Dec 10 2007, 4:21 pm
Is your water "good"? I use 100% R.O.
Do you turn your plants every 2-3 days? I do every day.
Do you use fertz every watering? Nope, I don't.
I never see spots so I'm just wondering what the hell I'm doing right?
Go to rollitup.com. It's a good place to get grow info and they are not all Ph'ds.
lizardeyes
Dec 10 2007, 3:05 pm
lizardeyes
Dec 10 2007, 3:01 pm
Captain Stoner
Dec 9 2007, 2:56 am
Back to the matter at hand, I am corrected, I just did some checking on my plants up close and it is a very small spider and some aphids under the leave.
Used a hard grade tooth brush under the leaves and put a small cap full of beer near the plants.
Captain Stoner
Dec 8 2007, 7:08 pm
Keep on GROWING!
unknown069
Dec 7 2007, 8:56 pm
mr diesel
Dec 7 2007, 1:11 pm
Green Hit
Dec 7 2007, 9:50 am
My kneejerk reaction would be that the plants may not be getting proper amounts of potassium. Try adding some Miracle-Gro and see if this solves your problem.
mr diesel
Dec 6 2007, 7:56 pm
bent2be
Dec 6 2007, 12:27 pm
Thanks and Overgrow the Government!
bent2be
Dec 6 2007, 12:25 pm
Your first mistake was drying it so quickly. You need to slowly and evenly dry the bud over the course of 1-2 weeks. Your second mistake was keeping it in the same room as your HID. One of THC's greatest enemies is light. Light causes the THC to degrade which in turn doesn't get you high. And you third and final mistake was not curing the buds after you dried them. The curing process converts the cannabinoids into the psychoactive compounds that get/keep you high.
dutch boyd
Dec 5 2007, 11:54 am
Green Hit
Dec 5 2007, 10:10 am
dutch boyd
Dec 4 2007, 7:32 pm
J@germe1ster
Nov 30 2007, 8:01 pm
I have a 6x12 room and was wondering what the conversion would be for: Size of room x # of plants= How much watts or lumens. Also If one were to have a 30amp 250w socket (like one for a washing machine) is there a way to use such socket with modern ballast and light setups?
Thanks for the help,
J@germe1ster
lol
Nov 29 2007, 8:45 am
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