BEGINNER'S GROWROOM
Volume 1
Thu, Aug 16, 2007 2:35 pm
Many growers—even those with more experience and expertise—can make the fatal mistake of rushing into a cannabis grow op. The most important consideration when starting up a room, whether it’s a closet, bedroom or warehouse, is how you will construct the space surrounding your garden. Building your room is more important than the system you use, the method of growing you choose or the strains you grow out, because without complete control of your growroom, there’s no guarantee of a successful harvest.
FENG SHUI
Designing your space is an integral part of creating an indoor growroom. A good place to start your planning is at the top and bottom of your room. Airflow and circulation are essential considerations for the design of your growroom, as everything from temperature to humidity to plant respiration depends on your exhaust and intake systems.
To begin, start by plotting out where your system will stand; usually this is in the center of the room, but depending on the doors or windows, it can vary. Then mark the floor with tape to get a visual on your layout. Next, think about light placement over your garden. This is particularly important for your room design if you plan to air-cool your lighting set-up.
Air-cooling your lights is a great way to control the atmosphere and temperature. But be forewarned: Using an advanced strategy like this can create twice as much work in terms of building your room. Because using an air-cooled lighting system requires an exhaust/intake system that is separate from your general room-exhaust/intake system (used for ventilation and air circulation), this means twice as many fans, holes and ductwork.
The bonus here, however, is that with a separate cooling system for your lights, you can safely use a CO2 system in your garden without worrying that the gas will get sucked out when your room exhausts. Because you’re air-cooling your lights, your room’s fans should vent the air much less frequently, since garden temperatures will be lower.
Recirculating the air in your garden serves multiple purposes. Besides blowing fresh air (with more CO2) past your leaves, growroom intake and exhaust fans help keep humidity down and prevent heat pockets from building up over your garden. Heat build-up is big problem in poorly ventilated growrooms.
When all of this is taken into consideration, a simple conclusion is that every growroom should have an intake fan low in the room to bring in cool air and an exhaust fan near the ceiling to expel hot air. Some growers may even use ducting to extend the fan’s range or to exhaust a specific area, such as directly above the lamps. Keep in mind that in larger spaces, ducting from lights, vents and fans will need to be suspended throughout the area, and this is no easy endeavor.
Also remember that if you decide to utilize an air-cooled light, you will need to find two additional points—one to intake cooler air to run over the bulb, and one to exhaust the lamp’s heat. However, depending on your room’s size, it may not be necessary to use outside air to cool your bulb. In some smaller set-ups, it can be efficient enough to simply suck hot air right off your lamp by attaching some ducting to a flange on the hood of your light and a fan at the other end. For beginners, this can be a great technique to use, since it would allow the same fan to serve as your growroom’s overall exhaust fan. In a smaller room, this simple system could keep temps low enough to effectively kill two birds with one fan.






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Allison Wonderland
Aug 15 2008, 6:23 pm
gaga4ganja
Aug 13 2008, 3:04 pm
c weed
Aug 13 2008, 2:44 pm
ragin rib
Aug 11 2008, 11:48 am
homer
Aug 1 2008, 11:46 pm
tim
Jul 30 2008, 4:14 pm
pyro
Jul 27 2008, 9:33 pm
mary j
Jul 15 2008, 11:18 pm
i would like to know if it is possible to grow with only those energy saving light bulbs
will those work or do i have the wrong idea?
i just started smoking and im new at this
Fingerpuppet
Jul 11 2008, 11:08 am
Big Perm
Jun 21 2008, 10:51 pm
Big Perm
Jun 21 2008, 10:36 pm
donl donlaface@yahoo.com
Jun 20 2008, 10:51 am
Big Fella
Jun 18 2008, 3:43 am
project
Jun 12 2008, 3:09 pm
Thanks. Keep Smoking
jax
Jun 9 2008, 5:41 pm
Allison Wonderland
Jun 8 2008, 7:11 pm
JOE
May 30 2008, 7:33 pm
bongbong
May 27 2008, 10:47 pm
you're an idiot
grown@home
May 24 2008, 10:46 am
puffinproudly
May 17 2008, 5:56 pm
indiana stones
May 11 2008, 4:01 pm
jh
May 9 2008, 10:55 pm
MisStress420
May 9 2008, 2:27 pm
Bluegrass
May 7 2008, 5:39 pm
420 4-ever(PEACE)
tommiegirl
May 6 2008, 1:48 pm
hm
Apr 28 2008, 10:36 pm
mr bud
Apr 26 2008, 2:36 am
jnos45
Apr 22 2008, 6:00 am
jnos45
Apr 22 2008, 5:40 am
parker
Apr 21 2008, 3:16 pm
BlueGrass
Apr 20 2008, 6:36 pm
month old baby in vegas
Mar 8 2008, 3:25 pm
straight edge
Mar 4 2008, 4:35 am
bubba
Jan 18 2008, 11:57 pm
dennis&anthonys hydro
Jan 16 2008, 11:43 am
weedhead
Dec 28 2007, 9:33 am
ganjua52
Dec 22 2007, 2:13 am
ganjua52
Dec 22 2007, 2:06 am
dnuttyprofessor
Dec 22 2007, 12:54 am
Hydro-organics is a mixture of the two type of growing methods, hydroponics(rockwool,clay pellets, lava rocks) and organics(SOIL). Instead of growing on a slab, a potfull of this hydro-organic mixture is watered daily with drip-emitters or automatically watered by a pump put at the higher end of an ebb and flow set-up(a coffee-table with a tarp on it etc..)What is most cool about this method is that the starter cube can be either hydro or soil.
You do not start the seeds off WITH the 300w light! insted you use the flourescents and wait until they start their third set of leaves or even wait until they are 9 inches tall. GENETICS are the key and breeding is FUN and rewarding when you become the type of grower who checks PH four times a day, sprays for mites during late vegatative cycles and has proper ventilation inable to avoid buying a sulfer burner for mold!
dnuttyprofessor
Dec 21 2007, 11:39 pm
300 watts and four plants....What you dont want to do is to trim to a single top. you'll end up with less than half an ounce. a waste of time. Since you only have four plants you want them to be as large as the 400 watts can handle which is almost plenty. you dont need any floodlights so dont bother. with only four plants youonlu need 1 shop light, not two but what the heck, too much light is not a problem until heat becomes a factor. You want the growroom at 79 degrees. 86 is ok and so is 74 buit 79 is the lick!. You can raise and lower lights to change tempature or add or turn off fans etc...pretty much you want your four plants as bushy as can be without touching eachother and as large 16 inches when lowering the light to induce flowering. 12 inches is best but you only have four plants and you will have to top them before flowering anyways.(a week or day before)a week is better but not neccasary.
What you should do. invest in one more light like a 600 or at best a 400watt HPS to use for flower eight plants started at 12 inches. experiment and find a hieth that fits your strain. hopefully your not sitting on a Purple Erkle eight year old clone of a clone that will produce to the most SEVEN grams! While another three different strains grow in the same enviornment and conditions, I mean right next to the others and they produce two ounces a peice! so what you need to REALLY start and not waste ANY prescious time is the RIGHT genetics.(Amsterdam stylee in my opinion)you have read my opinions so far, do you disagree?
tony_drog
Dec 20 2007, 9:07 am
ganjua52
Dec 20 2007, 12:24 am
ganjua52
Dec 19 2007, 10:51 pm
Suggs4Drugs
Dec 19 2007, 7:05 pm
Germinate by putting a few seeds inbetween a few MOIST (not soaking wet) papertowels, then place the papertowls with the seeds in a ziploc bag and then store for about 2days in a dark room or area, once a tiny "stem" protrudes from the seed. You can tell the plants male because after about a month of growing, your plant will either have a bunch of seeds coming off it, its a male. If it has 2 little entenae at the branch of the plant its female.
Ganjua 52, it depends whether your growing hydropnicaly or organicly.
Behindblueeyes07:
Buy a herb garden that has a cover with PVC pipes so it will protect the plants from harsh conditions, but Im not savy with Alaskan growing techniques, I wasnt even aware you could grow outside in alaska unless you were an experienced grower.
If anyone else has growing questions email me at:
Suggs4Drugs@live.com
BehindBlueEyes07
Dec 18 2007, 11:43 pm
SmoK3d Out
Nov 26 2007, 12:36 am
SmoK3d Out
Nov 26 2007, 12:35 am
Fuzzy
Nov 24 2007, 6:00 am
resin
Nov 23 2007, 12:02 am
Fuzzy
Nov 20 2007, 6:47 am
itaianteasy91582
Nov 13 2007, 12:07 pm
boogie-man
Nov 8 2007, 11:40 pm
AndrewBUD
Nov 7 2007, 7:57 pm
why do you kids ask stupid questions when you caused anything you did to your plants...
Patience is a vertue!
You cant make weed bud faster.... speacialy a beginer.
htboy1
Nov 7 2007, 1:13 pm
oh yah its indoors to can you hit me back and let me know
thank you
skilow
Nov 5 2007, 10:30 pm
keith
Nov 1 2007, 5:25 pm
smokieMcFatblunt
Oct 29 2007, 10:58 am
cesaleo
Oct 28 2007, 6:45 pm
WREK MTOKLAN
Oct 22 2007, 6:16 pm
Fuzzy
Oct 19 2007, 6:54 am
2 grennHit
Oct 15 2007, 6:21 pm
jimmyd
Oct 9 2007, 11:02 pm
bent2be
Oct 9 2007, 3:24 am
Mendogal
Oct 8 2007, 12:09 am
Thanks
bent2be
Oct 7 2007, 10:15 pm
bent2be
Oct 7 2007, 10:11 pm
Fuzzy
Oct 7 2007, 10:23 am
rookie
Oct 4 2007, 1:40 am
rookie
Oct 4 2007, 1:20 am
John Doe
Oct 2 2007, 3:32 am
georgie
Oct 2 2007, 1:58 am
D (again)
Sep 20 2007, 1:36 am
bent2be
Sep 19 2007, 2:20 pm
What you are talking about is "germinating" the seeds. It is best to take wet paper towels and place the seeds in them then fold it over the seeds. Now place the paper towel on a plate and keep it in a warm dark place for about 3 days (DON'T LET THE TOWEL DRY OUT!!!)Keep checking on them everyday until you see a little root sticking out, that's called the taproot. When you plant the seed, you want to put the taproot facing DOWN so the plant will grow UP. Now cover it with soil, lightly pack it and water it.
There you go my man.
Good luck and OVERGROW THE GOVERNMENT!!
joneeo
Sep 19 2007, 1:12 am
joneeo
Sep 19 2007, 1:05 am
joneeo
Sep 19 2007, 12:55 am
Don
Sep 18 2007, 5:37 pm
wh
Sep 18 2007, 12:19 pm
Green Hit
Sep 17 2007, 4:53 pm
cc
Sep 17 2007, 4:39 pm
means on seed packets
jshorty
Sep 17 2007, 12:10 am
nosmokeonlygrow
Sep 16 2007, 3:55 pm
nosmokeonlygrow
Sep 16 2007, 3:33 pm
BigBoy420
Sep 16 2007, 3:31 pm
smallstage
Sep 16 2007, 1:57 pm
hilljack
Sep 14 2007, 2:05 pm
retired
Sep 14 2007, 1:45 pm
cc
Sep 14 2007, 1:14 pm
hilljack
Sep 14 2007, 12:06 pm
hilljack
Sep 14 2007, 11:58 am
cc
Sep 14 2007, 11:52 am
greaaaaaa
Sep 14 2007, 3:13 am
cc
Sep 14 2007, 1:12 am
1. should i or should'nt i mist my plants while they are in flowering.
2. do i leave mycirculating afns on 24/7. i would appreciate any help you can give me
Thinker
Sep 13 2007, 9:49 pm
Mean Green
Sep 13 2007, 9:49 pm
Grow Pro
Sep 13 2007, 9:47 pm
bigred
Sep 13 2007, 8:30 pm
JUST STEAL
Sep 13 2007, 7:07 pm
Green Hit
Sep 13 2007, 5:03 pm
Don't keep them out of the light, just out of STRONG light. Try setting them equidistant around a 60 watt incandescent bulb for the duration of their convalesence. This should do fine ( assuming they survive the transplanting process ). You have to consider the fact that all of the normal functions roots are responsible for will have had a monkey wrench thrown into them and as a result the plant will be temporarily deprived of its usual flow of water and nutrients, thus reducing its ability to cope with its original environment and this includes light. It is for this reason that you want to keep the soil saturated ( not waterlogged, of course, so make sure you have good drainage ). It makes water and the nutrients it carries much more immediately accessible to the traumatized roots.
Once you feel reasonably certain that things are back to something like normal don't keep that soil saturated, just water when the leaves begin to look slightly droopy.
As far as the lighting schedule for flowering is concerned, look below to my answer to Raquel on the 12th.
Clyde
Sep 13 2007, 4:05 pm
JesseJT
Sep 13 2007, 3:46 pm
Green Hit
Sep 13 2007, 3:02 pm
Green Hit
Sep 13 2007, 3:02 pm
Green Hit
Sep 13 2007, 2:50 pm
By all means,if you think you can safely transplant all 12 plants, go for it. All I'm saying is that the roots on the plants have adapted to their positions in life at this point and I see no way to transplant such that you will not disturb the dirt around them. It is bound to fall away from the roots when you try to move them and the roots will be exposed to the air. Not good! If, in spite of my dire prognostications, you still want to try, then here is the best I can recommend: 1) Treat the plants with w/a solution of water and vitamin B-1 ( hardware store ) the day before you transplant. B-1 helps to minimize shock and stimulate root growth. 2) Have 12 new pots ( regular planting pots, NOT peat pots in this case, they're too small ) about half full of FRESHLY PURCHASED tamped potting soil standing ready to receive the plants to minimize the amount of time the roots are exposed to the air. 3) Carefully cut away the side of the coffee container and GENTLY remove the dirt around each seedling ( starting from the outside in ) until the seedling can be easily and completely removed from its place. 4) As each seedling is removed, hold it suspended in place in the new pot w/one hand while pouring in more of the potting soil around the roots w/the other. Gently tamp down the soil and keep repeating the process until the root is covered and the stem can remain upright on its own. 5) Saturate the soil of its new home w/more of the H2O and B-1 solution such that the soil is completely saturated. Remember, no matter how careful you are this WILL be a severe trauma to the plants. Keep them out of strong light for at least a couple of days. 6) Cross your fingers and think happy thoughts.
Good luck.
JesseJT
Sep 13 2007, 12:39 pm
Green Hit
Sep 12 2007, 11:27 pm
You can try to transplant your 12 disciples, but if they are already 4" high it's probably too late. In fact, I wouldn't even make the attempt because the roots are too well established at this point and would not take kindly to the displacement of dirt around them. You could easily lose them all as a result. A better alternative would be to thin the number down to three at most and transplant as a group to a much larger container. Also, before doing so, take a couple of the uppermost leaves off each plant, dry them and smoke them separately. Choose what seem to you to be the three best sets of leaves and let these be your keeps. Sacrifice the rest ( i.e., cut'em, dry'em, smoke'em ).
Sorry I can't offer you a better alternative. From now on, once germinated, each sprout should be given it's own pot. Peat pots from the hardware store are ideal for giving new plants their first solo home.
Green Hit
Sep 12 2007, 11:05 pm
I do not know of any way to "flavor" a plant and I've never heard of anyone that did, although it is my understanding that various aromas can be given to fermenting plants by placing spices between the layers of plant material.
To begin flowering all you have to do is to place the plants on a light cycle of 12 hours in the light and 12 hours in darkness and I do mean DARK. The whole thing can be upset if even a flashlight shines for just a few instants over the whole plant.
You can start the flowering process as early as two weeks if you like but, 1) you will harvest very little because they are so small and, 2) it will take a much longer time to kick into flowering mode because the plants will be very immature. If you are growing from seed, I would suggest letting them grow for least two or three months before going for the goodies.
NEEDUMJEEZUM
Sep 12 2007, 9:44 pm
JesseJT
Sep 12 2007, 5:54 pm
Green Hit
Sep 12 2007, 3:26 pm
sexygreen
Sep 12 2007, 2:35 pm
Raquel
Sep 12 2007, 1:57 pm
d0ubl3 J
Sep 12 2007, 1:42 pm
But where can i order these products from and will there be any trouble recieving them in the mail? Also when i get this started what/how many lights do i need?? I am going to b doind this eitha in my closet or basement throughout the winter in N.Y what is the ideal temperture to grow the clones and how could i achieve this tempeture. Thank You for all your help and you can count on me to put all this info to good use..
bent2be
Sep 12 2007, 10:58 am
to add on to Green Hit's answer, you can tell the sex of a plant but you need a magnifying glass. You need to look at the branch junctions and if you see a little pod with 2 or more white hairs poking out those are calyxes or female reproductive organs. Plants with closed pods and no hairs are pollen sacks which means it's a male, Kill it. Now on to your second question, Cloning... (You are going to need very sharp scissors or a razor, a glass of water, Clonex Gel($20), and a Rapid Rooter Tray with humidity dome and plugs($30))
First, start by growing a female to about 2ft tall.
Next, cut off a piece of branch approx. 5-6in from the tip and immediately place it in a glass of water cut side down to keep an air bubble from forming and killing the cutting. Now you want to do this about 30 times to increase your overall success rate and to fill the tray. Now one by one take a cutting and trim the leaves off only leaving 2 leaf sets. Then cut the entire cutting down to about 3-4in using a clean final diagonal cut. Next, dip the fresh cut into the jar of Clonex and make sure there is a thick coat of the gel on it. Now place the cutting into a plug in the Rapid Rooter Tray, take a spare plug and use a piece of it to fill up any gaps between the stem and the plug opening. Continue doing that until all your cuttings are done. Keep the tray under 24 hours of flourescent light. Mist them daily and keep the humidity dome on but make sure no condensation forms on the dome (too much humidity will enable mold to grow which will kill the roots). If condensation does form just move the dome off to one side just a bit to get some fresh air in there until the drops dissapate. After about 2 weeks you should be able to see roots growing from out of the bottom of the plugs. Now plant away.
I hope that answered your questions and good luck.
OVERGROW THE GOVERNMENT!!!
d0ubl3 J
Sep 12 2007, 12:45 am
Green Hit
Sep 11 2007, 12:46 am
There is no sure fire way of knowing whether a plant is male or female except by acually flowering them. However, in general, females will put more of their vegetative growing energies into branch development resulting in a somewhat fuller look over time while males concentrate on achieving height. Remember, though, that the overall look of any plant depends primarily on its variety. Some kinds just naturally look skinny and never really seem to fill out well.
Begin flowering a any age you like while keeping in mind that an older plant is, all other things being equal, the bigger it is and therefore the more flowers you'll harvest.
d0uble j
Sep 10 2007, 11:23 pm
Green Hit
Sep 9 2007, 9:11 pm
Raquel
Sep 9 2007, 10:50 am
jp420
Sep 8 2007, 11:11 pm
80inthefaslane
Sep 7 2007, 8:31 pm
80inthefastlane
Sep 7 2007, 1:20 pm
question.....how many plants per pot w/o choking them out?
the seeds were from good stock don't want to waste them.
Green Hit
Sep 5 2007, 1:01 pm
dd
Sep 5 2007, 9:34 am
dd
Sep 5 2007, 9:09 am
oh_high_oh
Sep 4 2007, 6:02 pm
Green Hit
Sep 4 2007, 1:15 pm
Popcorn
Sep 4 2007, 10:43 am
Roll 1 up
Sep 4 2007, 10:26 am
I have one of them and it's the best investment I've spent on myself and the plants.
Hey, this thing is the real deal, you have got to get one, my plants grew 30% bigger and I thank you guys for it:-)
www.Bey-Tech.com
GuRu
Sep 4 2007, 10:12 am
www.Bey-Tech.com
You can't go wrong, it grows bigger plants
Raquel
Sep 2 2007, 9:08 pm
Re:Green Hit
Sep 1 2007, 8:21 pm
Green Hit
Sep 1 2007, 5:28 pm
I have never ordered seeds from any place because I use the seeds that I get from buying stash, but it is my understanding that they are intercepted before they can get to the customer. However, I myself would never order seeds. Why not just hang a big sign at my house saying "MJ grower living here. Investigate at your convenience."?
Passout-Patient
Sep 1 2007, 4:47 pm
Okay, so heres my question.
Ive got the jars cureing in bottles. I tried not to "over stuff" the bottles becuase that can induse combustion, and i dont want to loose any bud to it (heat biuld up in the jars) Im useing 1 liter pop bottles (cut at the top just below the mouth peice) i hung anywhere from 1 ouch, to an 1/8th of marijuana in the jars.
Heres my question
Is it better you use smaller jars (becuase of the air flow threw them) or bigger jars (like i have) to keep $ expences low??? (+0.10 refund when im done) (thats to give you an idea of where im at, at the moment)
StonerBoner
Sep 1 2007, 6:18 am
imhigh
Sep 1 2007, 12:08 am
PotPisser
Aug 31 2007, 10:52 pm
StonerBoner
Aug 31 2007, 7:13 pm
Re:Chester
Aug 31 2007, 6:11 pm
Chester
Aug 31 2007, 12:25 pm
Off high times sight
Raquel
Aug 31 2007, 10:11 am
SCRREW RAQUEL
Aug 31 2007, 4:36 am
Re:REQUEL
Aug 30 2007, 7:07 pm
Raquel
Aug 30 2007, 1:35 pm
http://www.seedbay.com/?a=1002&b=20405
Raquel
Aug 30 2007, 1:32 pm
http://www.seedbay.com/?=1002&b=20405
That will lead you directly to the seed I want.
Raquel
Aug 30 2007, 1:23 pm
Re:Raquel
Aug 29 2007, 11:30 pm
Re;REQUEL
Aug 29 2007, 11:28 pm
Re:Raquel
Aug 29 2007, 10:32 pm
Raquel
Aug 29 2007, 8:54 pm
Raquel
Aug 29 2007, 8:51 pm
RE;RAQUEL
Aug 29 2007, 8:04 pm
Re;Raquel
Aug 29 2007, 8:03 pm
Raquel
Aug 29 2007, 5:45 pm
"C3"
Aug 29 2007, 12:32 pm
6
Aug 29 2007, 10:09 am
he a user too.
Green Hit
Aug 28 2007, 5:34 pm
If you are wanting sensemilla ( i.e., a female that has not been fertilized ) you can look forward to an extended grow period lasting several weeks. My method is to wait until about 1/3 to 1/2 the stigmas ( the two little "hairs" sticking out of each flower ) have withered before I harvest. In any case, you want to harvest if you notice the resin glands turning brown as this indicates that the plant's THC is oxidizing and degrading to CBN, resulting in a loss of potency. Also, once you have harvested, don't ditch the plant, but try for a second harvest by cutting the plants by about 1/4 to 1/3 their original height and watering and fertilizing as usual.
Green Hit
Aug 28 2007, 5:05 pm
I like to use fluorescents to grow. They are inexpensive, easily obtained from any hardware store, safe, and will raise few eyebrows if you are seen bringing them inside. Also, consider this: A 600 watt HPS or some such, used for a 4'x 4' grow area will yield 600 watts/16 sq.ft. or 37.5 watts/sq.ft.. I use a bank of six fluorescent fixtures ( 2 40 watts tubes per fixture for a total of 12 tubes ) in the same 4'x4' grow area for a total of 480 watts/16 sq.ft., i.e., 30 watts/sq.ft.. Almost as good with none of the disadvantages. For those who would tell me this system doesn't produce good buds, I can only say, if it produced crappy buds, I would't bother using it. Try it before you knock it.
By the way, fluorescents do not all give off the same color of light. You will want to use 2 "red" tubes to 1 "blue".
Raquel
Aug 28 2007, 11:15 am
For Cloud9 and Raquel
Aug 27 2007, 10:12 pm
If you are not in a rush to produce, try 4 shop lights with 2 tubes each, set 2 vert. 2 horz. and make sure your floor in the closet is lined well, use a small circular fan and set timers up turn the fan on and lights when you are using the power the most, evenings is good because lights are going on and off all the time and the meter man won't see the meter spinning out of control when he comes around. I think finding grow tubes for the shop lights might be even cheaper as well.
Good Luck and Happy Harvest
frane
Aug 27 2007, 7:35 pm
Skye Dark
Aug 27 2007, 3:17 pm
tinabobina
Aug 27 2007, 11:20 am
oldhead420
Aug 25 2007, 1:17 pm
Raquel
Aug 25 2007, 10:56 am
Raquel
Aug 25 2007, 10:56 am
MrBudWyzer
Aug 24 2007, 12:32 pm
Puff...Puff...
THCMAN
Aug 23 2007, 4:43 pm
Raquel
Aug 23 2007, 3:08 pm
jordan hughes
Aug 22 2007, 5:44 pm
cloud9
Aug 21 2007, 4:45 pm
rainbow
Aug 21 2007, 2:20 pm
rainbow
Aug 21 2007, 2:19 pm
TIP
Aug 20 2007, 3:09 pm
Lets see how good the DEA really is
HAHAHAHAHAHA
Amercan Drug money
get a life DEA-CIA
IDIOTS-NEVER
forcraig
Aug 19 2007, 6:57 pm
frustratedagain
Aug 19 2007, 6:56 pm
smarter-than-you
Aug 19 2007, 6:55 pm
dog
Aug 19 2007, 5:53 pm
imhigh
Aug 19 2007, 2:14 pm
drock101
Aug 18 2007, 5:42 pm
Thinker
Aug 17 2007, 8:54 pm
imhigh
Aug 17 2007, 2:27 am
imhigh
Aug 17 2007, 2:25 am
drock101
Aug 17 2007, 2:04 am
(1) 250w HPS (30000 lumens)
(1) 42w CFL (2700 lumens)
(2) 65w CFL Flourex Floodlighs (each 4500 lumen)
(2) 4' flourescent shoplights (1600 lumens each)
drock101
Aug 17 2007, 1:59 am
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