Let There Be Light
An In-depth Study of the Spectrum (& More)
Sat, Jan 17, 2009 11:22 am
Understanding light seems simple enough.
We all learn about our good friend ROY G. BIV early on in our schooling and the basic processes of a plant and photosynthesis soon follow. But understanding just how exactly these two components of science work together to form heavy, resin-soaked buds is something that has been left out of most grade school curriculums… Go figure.
It’s a real bummer too, because with just a little bit more knowledge about plants and light an average growroom can become something extraordinary, something superior, something potent… get ready for one lesson you’ll never want to forget.
BULB BASICS
Consider this: In terms of sheer lumens (the actual amount of light hitting a leaf’s surface), sunlight can travel 93 million miles and still reach the Earth’s surface at 5,000 lumens per sq. foot. Now that may not seem like a big deal, especially with all the fancy HID lights we find in grow shops these days, but in reality, nothing manmade can come close to producing that sort of power.
But to really understand light and lumens, we must first realize that artificial light cannot keep its strength nearly as well as the sun. In fact, light emitted from even our best bulbs will decrease, exponentially, as the distance (both vertically and horizontally) increases between light source and garden.
Lumens are a way of measuring light density. The units that lumens are actually measured in is equal to the number of candles it would take to light a specific area. It’s pretty old-school, but one lumen actually equals one foot-candle (or, more specifically, it is one candle’s worth of light per square foot of surface when that candle is held one foot away). Similarly, a lux would be one meter-candle (or one candle of light per square meter held one foot away). Saving the math, 1 lumen = 10 lux. However, one important distinction between the two terms needs to made; while lumens are a way to measure light energy leaving the source or bulb (which may also be known as flux), lux is a term generally reserved for indicating the amount of light energy actually reaching a given surface or leaf (and this is also known as illumination).
So why do we need to know this? Because knowing this helps us understand the power of our bulbs and thus tells us just how much light our plants are actually getting. When we go out and purchase a grow lamp the box will indicate how many lumens a particular bulb can put out. While that information is good to know, many times it can be a misleading sales pitch. Remember, those lumens will be vastly decreasing in number by the time that light reaches your plants, its basic physics.
MAKE EINSTEIN PROUD
Now, we hate to do this to you but it is for your own good, so pay attention! The Inverse-Square Law dictates to us the exact proportions for which our light will diminish over space and it really helps put things in perspective – such as why air cooling lights and keeping them as close to plants as possible is a really good idea. So here it is, straight from the wiki-world of definitions:
The intensity of light from a point source (energy per unit of area perpendicular to the source) is inversely proportional to the square of the distance from the source so an object twice as far away, receives only 1⁄4 the energy (in the same time period).
And in English for us potheads: Basically, if you have one lumen shining on one square foot at a height of one-foot from above, then at two-feet from above that lumen is now only a quarter of a lumen (1/4), because that single lumen will diminish by traveling a greater distance and is now also spread out over a greater area. Figure 1.1 shows that not only do we have to contend with the light losing strength, but also with the increased surface area that light must now cover.
BONUS POINTS
Considering the facts stated here, a good conclusion would be that keeping your lights close to plants is your best option for utmost efficiency. But, as always, there are even more considerations. Sure, keeping your lights lower help your plants to catch maximum lumens, but they will only be catching those lumens that are emitted towards your plants.
Remember, a light bulb shines 360 degrees around. If your HPS puts out 140,000 lumens, that’s 140,000 lumens in all directions. If you manage to get 10 percent of that on your garden, that’s only 14,000 lumens. Then consider the distance of you lamp and the Inverse Square Law, you may only be getting 2,000 of your 140,000 lumens onto your garden!
This is why a good reflector can make a big difference for your plants. But an even better solution is to hang your lights vertically, down the center of your garden with your plants surrounding your bulbs on all sides. Vertical grow systems such as the Coliseum (as featured in HT issue #380, September 2007) or the EcoSystem (pictured here) allow for extreme efficiency with HID bulbs.
UNDERSTANDING SPECTRUM
Just when you thought class might get easier, we move into Chapter 2: Spectrum. As dedicated horticulturalists, we need to understand that there are more advantages of Sunlight (over artificial lighting) than simply the sheer strength of the Sun. And to understand these advantages we need to know about spectrum and the role it plays in photosynthesis.
Photosynthesis, as we all know, is the process whereby our cannabis plants use light to create sugars that the plant will use for energy and, eventually, THC production. Can’t really argue with the importance of that. So to better serve this process, growers need to supply their plants not only with a powerful light source but also with specific light sources that can provide the proper range of spectrum to ensure maximum sugar production during photosynthesis.
When light hits the leaves of a plant, each leaf uses various pigments (most notably chlorophyll a, chlorophyll b and carotenoids) to trap light energy and extract photons, which are vital in converting the light energy into chemical energy. These photons combine with water to provide the plant with the needed chemical energy to fix carbon dioxide (CO2) molecules into sugars, carbohydrates and other organic compounds the plant will use as food.
So, what does spectrum and light color have to do with photosynthesis? Spectrums of light are actually different sized wavelengths that give the appearance of a variety of colors to the human eye. These wavelengths are important because plants absorb different colors of light in varying amounts for photosynthetic processes. Supplying your plants with those colors which the plants can absorb most readily and in high quantities assures better photosynthesis and more food for the plant, resulting in bigger yields and more resin production for super potent pot.
Unfortunately, for the indoor grower there is much debate over which frequencies of light are actually the best for plants. Scientists do know, however, the plant’s absorption rates during photosynthesis for each color of the spectrum. These absorption rates are shown in wavelengths as a plotted curve graph called a Photosynthesis Action Spectrum. This curve is depicted in Figure 1.2 with the sun’s natural light spectrum overlaid for comparison points of where the sun’s light is most efficient in photosynthesis. You’ll notice that where the sun’s spectrums are lacking – on the sides the spectrum in the red and blue light– are also the same areas where plants are most efficient at processing light.
Some people argue that plants are simply more efficient at using red and blue light because over the millions of years in the Earth’s history plants have naturally evolved to become more efficient at using these wavelengths since they are less abundant in nature (as is evident by the Sun’s spectrum). Other horticulturalists believe that supplying their plants with only red and blue spectrums of light is best for photosynthesis since the plant is most efficient at absorbing these wavelengths. Still, like anything else, the best solution is balance and to that end, many cannabis cultivators will use both HPS and MH lamps simultaneously to try and provide as much coverage of the spectrum as possible.
Some growers will merely complement their growrooms with supplemental grow lights or LED-based lamps that provide the reds and blues that conventional grow lights lack and these growers usually achieve excellent results with very healthy crops. (HT Heads Up: Stay tuned for future story in the March 2008 issue of High Times that will deal specifically with LED research and spectral efficiencies in photosynthesis!)
CO2 & MOVING LIGHT
OK, ok, we know what you’re thinking… trust us, this stuff isn’t only good for impressing your friends. Knowing all this information is useful because it ties into so many other facets of growing – such as why a light mover might be your next investment or just how much CO2 your plants will need.
As mentioned previously, the sun’s light is omnipresent in nature. It’s light can penetrate thick forest canopies and deliver just as much light to lower branches as it does to tree tops. This is hardly the case in a growroom. Unless a growroom uses a very large number of high-powered lamps, light penetration will still be very weak – and what does get through your top layers will be much weaker in terms of lux. Light movers offer a decent solution to the problem by sliding or circulating lamps over a garden so that light can sneak through canopy cracks and hit your leaves at more angles. Remember, the Sun is not stationary in the sky nor should your growroom lights be.
Similarly, knowing about light intensity can be a great help in another important area of indoor growing: CO2. A direct relationship exists between light and CO2 uptake and determining the correct ratio can increase your harvest by as much as 25 percent.
The general rule is pretty basic – the more light your plants receive the more CO2 they will need. When you supply your plants with light, you are really feeding them subatomic particles called photons. Technically speaking, it takes 10 photons to create enough electrons to supply the energy needed to split one CO2 molecule and form sugars for the plant. If there are millions, or even billions, of photons hitting your plants and not enough CO2 to react with them, these photons will be deflected, unused and ultimately wasted. This is bad news for growers who spend loads of money on high-powered lamps and electric bills and then get nothing in return.
To simplify things, let’s start with what not to do. Most expert growers will warn that CO2 levels of over 3,000 parts-per-million (PPM) are dangerous in an indoor grow operation. In the noonday sunlight, with around 5,000 lumens per square foot, a mature plant can process about 2,000 PPM of CO2. Some larger greenhouses may push these limits, but for home growing, this is not a good idea. In reality though, it is the PAR (photosynthetically active radiation) value that affects what your CO2 levels can be, not lumens. This is because PAR values are a more precise measurement of light that is usable by plants. This information is useful in artificial lighting as it focuses on the more specific spectral wavelengths that plants use best. We include this tidbit now as a primer – it will be an important aspect of the upcoming sequel on lights, focusing specifically on LED research (plus, we really don’t want you looking foolish at the next indoor grow convention).
But for all intents and purposes, using lumens and the distance you keep your lights from your plants are good ways of determining how much CO2 to add to a garden. Figure 1.3 shows ratios for CO2-to-light distance, which is to say how much extra PPM plants can use with lights getting closer and closer to your garden canopy. These estimates are based on optimal grow conditions where growroom temps do NOT exceed 85 degrees F.
Still, your best gauge for how much CO2 to use should depend mostly on your light intensity. Try to get a good reading on your growroom’s lux using a light meter from your local hydro shop. Or, if need be, you can go by the lumen output of your lighting system. Assuming optimal temps 0f 75-80 F, you can figure that with 5,000 lumens per sq. foot your CO2 may range from 1500-2000 PPM. At 1,000 lumens per sq. foot, use from 350-450 PPM. In the end, a good rule for average range for a standard indoor growroom with CO2 enrichment is to use approximately 400 PPM for every 1,000 lumens per sq. foot.
All ranges in between can be tweaked depending on system type, water supplies and room temps. Also, remember that lower temps will reduce plants’ CO2 uptake greatly. A plant at 84 F receiving 5,000 lumens can handle close to 2000 PPM, but that same plant at 69 F will only be able to use half that amount.
LED Lights
Talk about efficiency, LED bulbs are making huge strides lately in the way of intensity and spectrum. Boasting the highest lumen to watt ratio of any other bulbs, the latest advances in LED technology can still cost manufacturers as much as $15 for each tiny, ¼ inch bulb!
Still, the time is not far off when LED-based lighting systems will take over the market. With the ability to fine-tune amounts of available spectrums at specific nanometer (nm) wavelengths, LEDS are the way of the future.
For example, did you know that most horticultural scientists agree that the highest amount of usable wavelengths of the spectrum occur at red (675 nm) and blue (425 nm)? Yet, these two frequencies occur least in MH and HPS bulbs currently on the market. Hmmm… Not to mention newer models, such as the LED UFO promises as much lumen output as regular 400-watt MH/ HPS lamp – but using only 90 actual watts. Very impressive.
Stay tuned for Part II of Advanced Lighting, an LED-based lighting feature coming out in our March edition. In that story we will examine PAR ratings as they relate to light spectrum and how cannabis plants may (or may not) use various components of the spectrum in producing food. HID- LED test experiments will be conducted and the results analyzed as well as more in-depth research on the application of usable spectrum for photosynthesis. Until then amigos, keep in the know and stay in the grow!
Did you enjoy the lesson? For being such good students, here is one gratuitous bud shot for today's moment of Zen, coutesy Paradise Seeds, Amsterdam!
READ MORE FROM NICO ESCONDIDO IN THE JANUARY 2009 ISSUE OF HIGH TIMES MAGAZINE:













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Tunky
Dec 31 2011, 8:08 am
nugzz420
Dec 12 2011, 6:31 pm
Tunky
Dec 5 2011, 10:27 am
juniper420
Dec 28 2010, 1:15 pm
Grower
Dec 27 2010, 1:21 am
masterson
Dec 14 2010, 8:07 pm
Iriealistic
Dec 10 2010, 9:14 pm
4pain420
Nov 26 2010, 11:53 pm
4pain420
Nov 26 2010, 11:48 pm
djmorpheus
Nov 17 2010, 7:12 pm
Grower
Aug 22 2010, 3:02 pm
Make your dreams come true.
Grower
Aug 22 2010, 2:56 pm
LED's per watt have the largest yeild without incoherent dispute. Lumens are a critical aspect, however wavelengths of the lighting can be a more critical factor. As nico says, photons split the Co2.... and different wavelenghts (in nm or simply different colors) are utilized at varying difficulty by the plant to split the Co2 molecule. Just as the article says, Co2 must match the (PAR) photosynthetically active radition lighting in order to have a logical set up. In other words, the brighter your lights the more CO2 you need or visa versa. If they are out of balence, you will emitt photons that are wasted or you your will leak CO2 that you are not utilizing. Worse yet, risk toxic air levels.
Grower
Aug 22 2010, 2:43 pm
****As I sit here and type, it saddens me that the available information to expand my understanding of this topic is very limited, almost non-existant. Damn I wish I could do this shit legally.*** (And I can't in American cause of my felony).
Grower
Aug 22 2010, 2:36 pm
Let's not clutter this somewhatch quality page, lighting technology (mainly LED or the new Electronic ballests/lights) should dominate the page.
Matter is energy and energy is matter ... So you were wrong. That's how they make atomic energy and how they hope to one day utilize dark energy.
clist76
Jul 28 2010, 2:27 pm
4pain420
Jul 7 2010, 7:47 pm
JEP07
Jun 25 2010, 3:14 pm
they like the CO2 you exhale, you will appreciate the O2 they evapotranspirate. The more sleepers, the more C02 for the plants...
...great way to dispose of that C02, doncha think?
Dave
Mar 4 2010, 10:13 am
I hope that they do this, otherwise people will be pumping so much CO2 into their growrooms they'll be contributing to global warming, bottled CO2 is produced through combustion of fossil fuels, not to speak of the danger when they spend too much time in their growrooms, CO2 poisoning, a major threat at those concentrations being listed.
At least they should include warnings.
Dave
Mar 4 2010, 10:08 am
Equating the fixation of one CO2 with 10 photons, doesn't work as a it depends on how much light a plant recieves, how much water it has, and it what phase it's in.
3,000ppm CO2 is not only overkill, but can seriously diminsh the growth of your plants, as plants can only handle so much C02 before they 1) sufficate, plants need O2 over the leaves as well and 2) acidification.
Most studies show that plants grow best at concentrations at about 400ppm, doesn't matter how much light you give them. Above they plateau and eventually lose efficiency.
Cannabis is a C3 plant, meaning it loses growth efficiency above a certain temperature, because the CO2 grabbing protein, RUBISCO, cannot differentiate between CO2 and O2 at normal concentrations. This means the plant can't get it's most important nutrient. Increasing the CO2 concentration at this point helps the plant because the equilibrium concentration of CO2 is higher. It's then easier for RUBISCO to decide what's CO2 and what's not.
But all of that is just a waste of CO2. The best method, temperature under 27°C and concentrations of CO2 at about 400ppm.
Dave
Mar 4 2010, 9:43 am
Really that is not even close to the sun spectrum reaching the surface of the earth.
4pain 420
Mar 2 2010, 11:49 am
Montana caregiver
Mar 1 2010, 12:41 pm
K-pax
Feb 26 2010, 1:49 pm
LAPD
Feb 24 2010, 9:29 am
Cottonmouth...
Feb 23 2010, 9:26 am
powerbud420
Feb 20 2010, 6:56 pm
MacSmokem
Feb 14 2010, 6:24 pm
MacSmokem
Feb 14 2010, 6:22 pm
goatman
Feb 10 2010, 7:14 pm
BLAZEALOT420
Feb 9 2010, 12:04 am
BLAZEALOT420
Feb 8 2010, 11:31 pm
budfarm1
Jan 28 2010, 6:04 pm
Goatman
Jan 18 2010, 5:39 pm
Goatman
Jan 18 2010, 5:37 pm
Lockerroom
Jan 2 2010, 7:28 pm
James and the Giant Purps
Jan 2 2010, 7:26 pm
Bendmmc
Jan 2 2010, 5:33 am
bluehaze
Dec 14 2009, 5:05 am
Alias
Nov 29 2009, 6:45 pm
farmerBUD
Oct 30 2009, 1:00 am
NCognitoLV
Oct 27 2009, 1:57 am
I'm wit Infamous on this one.. Guess eLoofa is got a pretty good hold of cuz thas what we all gotz here as well in Vegas. Picked them up at PLanet nursery or whatevz off the strip
I only use em to grow clones, but practically got my entire bed room covered with those now. Not saving as much energy cuz I got damn many, but I'm producing around twice as much with same wattz so hopefully I'm covered, haha
farmerBUD
Oct 22 2009, 4:53 pm
not a pro
Oct 20 2009, 1:08 pm
MAKS
Oct 14 2009, 7:10 pm
How can i get one that works well?
hadabuddywhousedto
Sep 21 2009, 10:15 pm
300w equiv. CFL's....realistically equiv. to 150hid light. They are CHEAP. there is a vid on youtube showing how to build your own fiture for about $30. The 62w CFL(300w equiv.) add about $10 to the fixture. They put off almost no heat, so you can keep the light inches from the plant(refer to the article less distance to the plant, less loss of lumens). They are energy effiecient. You can afford to add more, and even position them anyway you want. Meaning you can make use of the entire plant and not just the top of the plant. As for you jumping to comment on spctrum, the bulbs are 2700K. You can get your blue's from a higher spectrum cfl thrown in here and there, or even add the also energy efficient LED's for the other spectrums. Lets hear it Neighsayers....
Jimmy20009
Sep 17 2009, 5:07 pm
JUSTVOIDED
Sep 11 2009, 9:14 pm
BY EVERYONE THROWINNG THEIR SEEDS OUTSIDE SOMEWHERE THEY WILL GROW, WE CAN RE-INTRODUCE PLANTS BACK IN THE WILD.... IMAGINE WHAT THAT COULD BE LIKE.
bishop420247
Sep 8 2009, 9:58 am
bishop420247
Sep 8 2009, 9:56 am
chinaman
Sep 7 2009, 8:31 pm
bishop420536
Sep 4 2009, 6:49 pm
anonymous
Aug 29 2009, 7:59 pm
InFamousGK
Aug 15 2009, 5:02 pm
It seems that the wavelength is better - eLoofa had 660nm Red and 460nm Blue, whereas the Sunshine had 630 - 660 nm Red and 450 Blue. I've found that eLoofa are the best ones with the exact wavelength spectrums - Everyone else seem to be selling to be selling the ones with a range online for $150 - $300, but those are garbage.
I just picked the eloofa one locally in Santa Monica
TX
Aug 2 2009, 3:26 pm
anonymous
Jul 28 2009, 7:22 am
NE Ohio
Jul 27 2009, 10:21 am
Well, the first one turned out to be a hermie, darnit! I have read that usually if one is a hermie they all will be (from same seed bag) Now, can anyone suggest a reputable seed bank?
Now I know I can grow them, flower them, I'm going to need good seeds!
NE Ohio
Jul 21 2009, 7:13 am
skaterdude1229 (http://www.youtube.com/user/skaterdude1229) - 9 vids that show you how to harvest every 2 months!
NE Ohio
Jul 21 2009, 7:03 am
Above is the link for the cheapest LED Light I have found (and I bought one)
NE Ohio
Jul 21 2009, 6:54 am
ps - decided to go LED to save on power and also "no heat stamp" & haven't grown since the 70's
treehugger
Jul 1 2009, 2:34 pm
You can strengthen during the veg by bending them back-and-forth a few times(repeat daily for a week or two)exactly where you anticipate needed strength would behoove you/it.
andres
Jun 1 2009, 2:54 pm
BudGrower
May 26 2009, 8:39 pm
noktommaster
May 20 2009, 3:19 pm
DryAnConfused
May 19 2009, 4:11 pm
Peter Planter
May 7 2009, 1:07 pm
LEDs are garbage people - read the story! You need full spectrum!!
PetFlora
May 5 2009, 4:04 pm
Blueman
Apr 20 2009, 8:28 am
Uvb is necessary for the proper formation of THC. When THC migrates outside of the cell wall from the stem to the actual trichrome tip, CBN and CBD is transformed into potent THC by way of UVB. Without healthy doses of UVB spectrum a marijuana plant can never reach full potential. I have groing the same strain for years now and recently added UVB to grow op, WOW WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IPcpt3Be28o
Green Hit
Apr 13 2009, 9:11 pm
Hydroponic System Growth
Apr 9 2009, 2:36 pm
www.Dealzer.com
702sweetshrubs
Apr 3 2009, 3:19 pm
thanks....
Part II
Mar 19 2009, 4:47 pm
Part II - Light & The LED Zeppelin - was published on page 48 of HT issue #386, March 2008 (complete with test results). We'll try and get that one up very soon for you guys.
Also, Part III is rumored to come out in August 2009. Pretty big lag, but that story will focus on a whole new light technology - multi-bulb (HID) units with lamps of varying frequency (or temperature) with emphasis on spectrum and photosynthetic properties.
Thanks for reading!
Dissapointed
Mar 8 2009, 7:24 pm
Name and shame. What brand was the led, what model, and what power rating was it (Watts)? Id like to know what "Top of the line" Led to stay away from. Others here would also like to know. Furthermore, what area were they trying to cover? (Area V LED Watts used?)
Thanks.
FUBAR
Mar 7 2009, 4:17 pm
buddin nutt
Mar 6 2009, 5:48 pm
got a few questions..I got a veg room set up for seedlings and clones and eventually my mothers.. 1 question is how far into flowering can i go before i revert to veg to get some clones..2nd question ..i got some Alaskan Ice and G-Force seeds planted..(got them in a good mix in small containers to germinate right in soil on a seed heat mat its been 14 days and no starts yet) are they old hard seeds gonna take a little longer or should i dig them up..i got white widow seed up in 10 days just wondering wtf cant wait for the Ice.. anyone wanna help a stickey brother out here
Peace out and keep growing
hoopie
Mar 5 2009, 6:49 pm
Dissapointed
Mar 5 2009, 11:57 am
As stated, "Part II" was supose to be an IN DEPTH review and analysis of LED results published in the MARCH eddition. It clearly was not published and false advertising at least. I hope they rectify this issue as a lot of people are awaiting in their results. I just hope they are not being paid off to with hold the review. As you can imagine, if the LED's are as good as they say they are supose to be, it spells the death of M/H and HPS lamps.
TooHigh
Mar 2 2009, 3:47 pm
FUBAR
Mar 1 2009, 5:54 pm
Disapointed
Mar 1 2009, 3:21 pm
So whats the hold up with the review? I hope your not taking payments from the highest bidder and present the truth about this new source of lighting.
FUBAR
Feb 26 2009, 3:38 pm
pot-on
Feb 26 2009, 4:35 am
i've got to admit that i have been having some trouble myself with what kinda collors of lights i gotta use then.
(it's no cake)
belfairbud
Feb 24 2009, 5:00 pm
Harleynut
Feb 22 2009, 12:31 pm
ArmPit
Feb 19 2009, 5:19 pm
Thank you!
Clay
Feb 15 2009, 7:16 pm
mine has a 32 ft lead,and can reach everything good. BE sure and mix light,you are introducing more into the plant with the 5 micron droplets produced by the fogger. Stumbled on to this because pumpin a mist bottle disturbs Arthur.
matt@waterstreet
Feb 14 2009, 6:59 pm
holy shit
Feb 12 2009, 11:27 am
i already knew most of this, but a refresher is always good. plus there are some real gems in here.
as for soil, sunshine mix #4 is great. any pro-mix is good. you can supplement this mixes with worm castings and perite or coco for really great results.
stay away from real soil (ie, top soils, dirts etc). they carry pests and disease.
jusgro
Feb 11 2009, 6:42 pm
Legaljuana33
Feb 10 2009, 10:28 pm
freedom fighter
Feb 9 2009, 4:30 pm
New to This
Feb 2 2009, 11:09 am
Bob M.
Feb 1 2009, 5:14 pm
t.s.
Jan 29 2009, 12:51 pm
Dr. Carter
Jan 27 2009, 11:59 pm
t. s.
Jan 27 2009, 10:20 pm
paranoid in PA
Jan 27 2009, 9:47 pm
N. Lights
Jan 27 2009, 7:23 pm
thebosdj
Jan 27 2009, 2:16 am
amaranth
Jan 25 2009, 10:33 am
anonymous
Jan 25 2009, 1:54 am
Kid Kush
Jan 23 2009, 7:47 pm
Techie
Jan 23 2009, 12:21 pm
hood71
Jan 23 2009, 1:29 am
whitewidow
Jan 19 2009, 1:59 pm
sponge brain
Jan 19 2009, 12:54 pm
Doobie Brother
Jan 19 2009, 1:19 am
Prof's Prof
Jan 19 2009, 12:59 am
CO2 + 2 H2A + photons → (CH2O)n + H2O + 2A
carbon dioxide + electron donor + light energy → carbohydrate + oxygen + oxidized electron donor
That's why Nico wrote "combine". Good word choice.
Science Prof
Jan 19 2009, 12:56 am
The Prof
Impressed
Jan 19 2009, 12:24 am
In a day and age when growing marijuana is still very prohibited, it is a true blessing to come to a site like this and something like this.
THANK YOU High Times for many years of great work and to Mr. Escondido, this is perhaps the best grow article I've ever read.
common cents
Jan 19 2009, 12:21 am
my 2 cents
AD-BABA
Jan 17 2009, 11:03 pm
Science Guy
Jan 17 2009, 10:27 pm
bringback the hippies
Jan 17 2009, 3:25 pm
rex
Jan 17 2009, 9:43 am
anonymous
Jan 17 2009, 2:35 am
dude
Jan 16 2009, 9:05 pm
One Love!
homegrwn
Jan 16 2009, 6:14 pm
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